The "women pilgrims route" is a 17-kilometer trail that stretches around the perimeter of Koyasan, Japan's most spiritual temple complex.
Koyasan's women pilgrims route —
The "women pilgrims route" is a 17-kilometer trail that stretches around the perimeter of Koyasan, Japan's most spiritual temple complex.
Pongpat Patumsuwon/CNN
Prior to 1872, women were banned from entering Koyasan. The trail starts on the outskirts of the town at Fudozaka-guchi Nyonindo, one of seven "women's halls" built to accommodate female pilgrims. It's the only one still standing.
Fudozaka-guchi Nyonindo —
Prior to 1872, women were banned from entering Koyasan. The trail starts on the outskirts of the town at Fudozaka-guchi Nyonindo, one of seven "women's halls" built to accommodate female pilgrims. It's the only one still standing.
Pongpat Patumsuwon/CNN
Nowadays women can experience Koyasan but the quiet trail, filled with dense forests and crumbling deities, is still worth hiking.
Ancient deities —
Nowadays women can experience Koyasan but the quiet trail, filled with dense forests and crumbling deities, is still worth hiking.
Pongpat Patumsuwon/CNN
The trail passes the sacred Daimon Gate, which is over 25 meters high and marks the main entrance to Koyasan.
Daimon Gate —
The trail passes the sacred Daimon Gate, which is over 25 meters high and marks the main entrance to Koyasan.
JNTO
The women pilgrimage route passes the entrance of Okunoin, home to the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi and what must be one of the world's most beautiful cemeteries. Its cobblestone trail, lined with ancient cedar tress, is filled with more than 200,000 gravestones and memorials.
Okunoin —
The women pilgrimage route passes the entrance of Okunoin, home to the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi and what must be one of the world's most beautiful cemeteries. Its cobblestone trail, lined with ancient cedar tress, is filled with more than 200,000 gravestones and memorials.
JNTO
Though there are a few steep sections, the trail is relatively easy to hike.
Moderately easy —
Though there are a few steep sections, the trail is relatively easy to hike.
Pongpat Patumsuwon/CNN
The forests of Koyasan feature cedar, hinoki cypress, umbrella pine, red pine, fir and southern hemlock trees.
Diverse flora —
The forests of Koyasan feature cedar, hinoki cypress, umbrella pine, red pine, fir and southern hemlock trees.
Pongpat Patumsuwon/CNN
The trails are simple to navigate. Well-marked signs in Japanese and English can be found throughout the route.
Well-marked trails —
The trails are simple to navigate. Well-marked signs in Japanese and English can be found throughout the route.
Pongpat Patumsuwon/CNN
Of Koyasan's 117 temples, there are more than 50 that allow overnight guests. Henjoko-in Temple, pictured, has 35 guest rooms, gardens and a prayer hall.
Henjoko-in —
Of Koyasan's 117 temples, there are more than 50 that allow overnight guests. Henjoko-in Temple, pictured, has 35 guest rooms, gardens and a prayer hall.
Pongpat Patumsuwon/CNN
Temple meals are served in traditional Japanese dining rooms, where guests are seated on pillows on the floor. All the food is shojin ryori (vegan Buddhist cuisine).
Shojin ryori —
Temple meals are served in traditional Japanese dining rooms, where guests are seated on pillows on the floor. All the food is shojin ryori (vegan Buddhist cuisine).
Pongpat Patumsuwon/CNN
Every morning at Shojoshin-in Temple's prayer hall, the head priest leads morning prayers, which guests are invited to attend.
Shojoshin-in Temple —
Every morning at Shojoshin-in Temple's prayer hall, the head priest leads morning prayers, which guests are invited to attend.
Pongpat Patumsuwon/CNN
Rengejo-in Temple has 48 guests rooms and a large zen garden near the entrance.
Rengejo-in Temple —
Rengejo-in Temple has 48 guests rooms and a large zen garden near the entrance.
CNN
Many of the guest rooms at Koyasan's temples are centered around a lush, green garden.
Rengejo-in Temple —
Many of the guest rooms at Koyasan's temples are centered around a lush, green garden.
Pongpat Patumsuwon/CNN
The temples' private Japanese-style guest rooms vary in price according to size and views. All rooms feature comfortable futon beds, which are rolled out at night onto tatami floors.
Simple, comfortable rooms —
The temples' private Japanese-style guest rooms vary in price according to size and views. All rooms feature comfortable futon beds, which are rolled out at night onto tatami floors.
CNN
No women allowed: A Japan pilgrimage for the forbidden sex

Story highlights

Koyasan is the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism, a Chinese-influenced esoteric sect

Women were banned from Koyasan until 1872

The 'women pilgrims route' allowed them to get close -- but not too close -- to the temple complex

Koyasan, Japan CNN  — 

It’s difficult to imagine how the female pilgrims trekking the perimeter of Koyasan, one of the most holy sites in Japan, must have felt while making their journey centuries ago.

On the one hand, this “women pilgrims route” in Wakayama prefecture is 17-kilometer stretch of incredible natural beauty.

Thick, silent forests, moss-covered rocks and trickling streams share space with historic shrines, crumbling deities and red torii gates. Occasionally, the densely forested trail breaks free from its covered confines to reveal open skies and the dramatic vistas of Japan’s mountainous Kii Peninsula.

On the other hand, the trail symbolizes their forbidden status – a path forged to allow female pilgrims a chance to make offerings and feel the spiritual energy of the mountaintop temple complex without actually entering because of Koyasan’s ban on female visitors.

Surely it must have stung just a little to be so close to this holy site, made worse by the fleeting glimpses of Koyasan’s religious architecture that appear to those walking the trail, yet still unable to enter.

Overnight on one of the world’s most sacred mountains

Unlike the trail’s beauty, times have changed

Fortunately, women are no longer personae non gratae there.

Founded in 806 by a man named Kobo Daishi, one of Japan’s most revered religious figures, Koyasan is the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism, a Chinese-influenced esoteric sect.

In 1872, the incoming Meiji government declared that Buddhist monks should be free to take wives and have children. Around this time, the ban on female visitors ended. But that doesn’t mean it’s not worth retracing the steps of the once forbidden pilgrims – regardless of whether you’re a man or woman.

Koyasan's Daimon Gate.
Koyasan's Daimon Gate.
JNTO

The route takes about six to seven hours to hike, though it can be broken into even smaller treks. It passes all seven of Koyasan’s traditional entrances. And it’s quiet. During our visit, we encountered fewer than 10 other hikers.

We opted for a shorter journey, which took about three hours and began on the outskirts of Koyasan at Fudozaka-guchi Nyonindo, the only one of seven “women’s halls” built to accommodate female pilgrims still standing.

Passing the sacred Daimon Gate, our hike ended near the entrance of Okunoin, home to the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi and what must be one of the world’s most beautiful cemeteries. Its cobblestone trail, lined with ancient cedar tress, is filled with more than 200,000 gravestones and memorials.

A map of the women pilgrims route can be downloaded on Koyasan’s official website.

Danjo Garan, one of Koyasan's holiest sites, is made up of 20 different structures, from pagodas to Shinto torii gates.
Danjo Garan —
Danjo Garan, one of Koyasan's holiest sites, is made up of 20 different structures, from pagodas to Shinto torii gates.
Wakayama Tourism
The walk to Kobo Daishi's mausoleum is filled with more than 200,000 gravestones, monuments and memorials (no bodies are buried here), all sharing space with moss-covered Shinto torii gates and thick forest.
Okunoin —
The walk to Kobo Daishi's mausoleum is filled with more than 200,000 gravestones, monuments and memorials (no bodies are buried here), all sharing space with moss-covered Shinto torii gates and thick forest.
Karla Cripps/CNN
Shojin ryori meals contain no meat or animal products. Strong smelling vegetables such as spring onion and garlic are off limits, too. Prepared by the right chef, however, the food is delicious.
Shojin ryori —
Shojin ryori meals contain no meat or animal products. Strong smelling vegetables such as spring onion and garlic are off limits, too. Prepared by the right chef, however, the food is delicious.
Wakayama Tourism
This two-story pagoda is part of the sacred Danjo Garan site. In the 9th century, Koyasan was founded on this very ground. At the time, Kobo Daishi held a groundbreaking ceremony then dedicated his life to the construction of Danjo Garan.
Danjo Garan —
This two-story pagoda is part of the sacred Danjo Garan site. In the 9th century, Koyasan was founded on this very ground. At the time, Kobo Daishi held a groundbreaking ceremony then dedicated his life to the construction of Danjo Garan.
Karla Cripps/CNN
The Okunoin graveyard has monuments to historic figures, war heroes, royalty, business leaders, children and even pets. Devotees can add their own memorial to the site for a fee.
A monument for everyone —
The Okunoin graveyard has monuments to historic figures, war heroes, royalty, business leaders, children and even pets. Devotees can add their own memorial to the site for a fee.
Karla Cripps/CNN
Each morning at 6:30 and 10:30 a.m. at this small shrine, meal offerings are prepared for Kobo Daishi Kukai, placed in a covered box and carried up to his mausoleum by masked monks.
Morning offerings —
Each morning at 6:30 and 10:30 a.m. at this small shrine, meal offerings are prepared for Kobo Daishi Kukai, placed in a covered box and carried up to his mausoleum by masked monks.
Karla Cripps/CNN
This adorable Okunoin cemetery statue is wearing makeup. People in need of some beauty come to it to make offerings.
Prayer for makeup gods —
This adorable Okunoin cemetery statue is wearing makeup. People in need of some beauty come to it to make offerings.
Karla Cripps/CNN
Inside the sacred Daito stupa at Danjo Garan (one of the two most sacred sites in Koyasan), Bodhisattvas (Bosatsu), are painted on each pillar.
Danjo Garan —
Inside the sacred Daito stupa at Danjo Garan (one of the two most sacred sites in Koyasan), Bodhisattvas (Bosatsu), are painted on each pillar.
Karla Cripps/CNN
Kongobuji Temple is the headquarters for Shingon Buddhism, which has more than 4,000 temples and missions throughout Japan and overseas.
Kongobuji Temple —
Kongobuji Temple is the headquarters for Shingon Buddhism, which has more than 4,000 temples and missions throughout Japan and overseas.
Wakayama Tourism
Japan's largest rock garden, Banryutei, sits in the inner courtyard at Koyasan's Kongobuji Temple. The rock garden was completed in 1984.
Japan's biggest rock garden —
Japan's largest rock garden, Banryutei, sits in the inner courtyard at Koyasan's Kongobuji Temple. The rock garden was completed in 1984.
Karla Cripps/CNN
Koyasan, Japan: Staying with monks on one the world's most sacred mountains

Overnight in Koyasan

World’s best unknown hike – Japan’s Kumano Kodo

After the hike it’s worth spending at least a full day exploring Koyasan. With a population of about 3,000 people, the town has ancient forests, historic pagodas, paved roads, restaurants, schools, cafes and souvenir shops.

In addition to Okunoin, another popular attraction is Danjo Garan, often described as the second-most sacred site in Koyasan. It’s made up of 20 religious structures, from pagodas to torii gates and temples.

There’s also Banryutei, Japan’s largest rock garden. Located in the inner courtyard of Koyasan’s Kongobuji temple, it was completed in 1984 to commemorate the 1,150th anniversary of Kobo Daishi’s ascent into eternal meditation.

Of Koyasan’s 117 temples, there are more than 50 that allow overnight guests. Though temple stays usually evoke images of excessive minimalism and hard floors, the ones here prove a spiritual experience doesn’t have to be uncomfortable.

Koyasan’s temples vary in terms of amenities and prices but there are a few common denominators. Most of the traditional Japanese guest rooms have their own washroom, but you will need to use the public baths.

Guests sleep on comfortable futons, which are rolled out at night onto the rooms’ tatami floors. Facilities include gardens, a tea ceremony room, prayer hall and library.

Many of the hallways at Henjoko-in Temple overlook a lovely garden.
Many of the hallways at Henjoko-in Temple overlook a lovely garden.
Pongpat Patumsuwon/CNN

In addition to morning prayers, guest activities at some temples include “sutra copying” (transcription of 262 words of Hanya Shinkyo scripture) and meditation sessions.

All temple meals are shojin ryori (vegan Buddhist cuisine) though for those craving a bit of meat or sushi there are more diverse offerings at Koyasan’s regular restaurants. We had a chance to check out four different temples that are equipped to service foreign tourists, all of which offer comfortable, clean rooms, beautiful gardens and courteous staff.

These are: Henjoko-in Temple (35 guest rooms), Shojoshin-in Temple (30 guest rooms), Rengejo-in Temple (48 guest rooms) and Fudou-in Temple (22 guest rooms).

All of these can all be booked on the official Koyasan website.

Sagano Bamboo Forest – one of world’s most beautiful groves

Getting there

The Nankai Electric Railway makes four round-trips a day by Limited Express and runs Express trains at about 30-minute intervals between Osaka Namba Station and Koyasan Station.

The trip takes 100 minutes by Limited Express, and about two hours by Express. From Koyasan Station, visitors can hop on a 10-minute bus to Koya town.