Practical and ecological -- the grass roofs in the Faroe Islands, a remote archipelago halfway between Scotland and Iceland, are the most conspicuous element of the local architecture.
Famous grass roofs —
Practical and ecological -- the grass roofs in the Faroe Islands, a remote archipelago halfway between Scotland and Iceland, are the most conspicuous element of the local architecture.
Dominik Sipinski/CNN
Houses have been built like this for more than 1,000 years, providing protection from rain and thermal insulation. Though challenging to maintain (yes, they need to be mowed), in a place with 300 rainy days a year and average wind speeds exceeding 15 mph, that kind of weather-proofing is key.
Durable houses —
Houses have been built like this for more than 1,000 years, providing protection from rain and thermal insulation. Though challenging to maintain (yes, they need to be mowed), in a place with 300 rainy days a year and average wind speeds exceeding 15 mph, that kind of weather-proofing is key.
Dominik Sipinski/CNN
This is the harbor in Torshavn, capital of the Faroe Islands, at 11 p.m. In summer the sun hardly sets and it never gets completely dark. Surprisingly, there's little nightlife in the city.
Harbor in the capital —
This is the harbor in Torshavn, capital of the Faroe Islands, at 11 p.m. In summer the sun hardly sets and it never gets completely dark. Surprisingly, there's little nightlife in the city.
Dominik Sipinski/CNN
Tarred wooden staves have replaced the old stone walls, as seen on this farmhouse in Kirkjubour, one of the oldest inhabited wooden houses in the world. It dates to the 11th century and for nearly 500 years has belonged to the Patursson family.
Oldest inhabited wooden house —
Tarred wooden staves have replaced the old stone walls, as seen on this farmhouse in Kirkjubour, one of the oldest inhabited wooden houses in the world. It dates to the 11th century and for nearly 500 years has belonged to the Patursson family.
Dominik Sipinski/CNN
The buildings have become symbols of the islands.
Symbolic roofs —
The buildings have become symbols of the islands.
Dominik Sipinski/CNN
In contrast with the usual splendor of government buildings, the administration of the Faroe Islands sits in a few small structures topped with grass. They're located on the Tinganes peninsula in the capital Torshavn where a local "ting" (assembly) has been gathering since the ninth century.
Government bulidings also have grass roofs —
In contrast with the usual splendor of government buildings, the administration of the Faroe Islands sits in a few small structures topped with grass. They're located on the Tinganes peninsula in the capital Torshavn where a local "ting" (assembly) has been gathering since the ninth century.
Dominik Sipinski/CNN
Sheep and goats are common intruders on the well maintained Faroese roads.
Sheep and goats are typical —
Sheep and goats are common intruders on the well maintained Faroese roads.
Dominik Sipinski/CNN
One of the most picturesque churches in the Faroes is in Saksun. Surrounded by waterfalls and overlooking a narrow fjord, this church was built in 1858 with, naturally, a roof made of the surrounding turf.
And churches too —
One of the most picturesque churches in the Faroes is in Saksun. Surrounded by waterfalls and overlooking a narrow fjord, this church was built in 1858 with, naturally, a roof made of the surrounding turf.
Dominik Sipinski/CNN
Edges of the grass roofs are formed from a vertical stave or a log hooked to the roof. Additional sealing can be made using birch bark. Grass is laid in prepared, cut pieces and keeps growing once on the roof.
Grass keeps growing —
Edges of the grass roofs are formed from a vertical stave or a log hooked to the roof. Additional sealing can be made using birch bark. Grass is laid in prepared, cut pieces and keeps growing once on the roof.
Dominik Sipinski/CNN
Modern architecture can be found on the Faroe Islands, but many locals still opt for grass roofs.
Traditionalists —
Modern architecture can be found on the Faroe Islands, but many locals still opt for grass roofs.
Dominik Sipinski/CNN
The Nordic House, a national cultural center opened in 1983, also sports a grass roof. The custom of topping houses in such a way used to be common to the whole Scandinavia, but it survives to the largest extent in the Faroe Islands.
The Nordic House —
The Nordic House, a national cultural center opened in 1983, also sports a grass roof. The custom of topping houses in such a way used to be common to the whole Scandinavia, but it survives to the largest extent in the Faroe Islands.
Dominik Sipinski/CNN
These sheds at the Leitisvatn lake were originally built by early Viking settlers.
Challenging to maintain —
These sheds at the Leitisvatn lake were originally built by early Viking settlers.
Dominik Sipinski/CNN
In Torshavn harbor, a Smyril Line ship has just arrived from Denmark, bringing tourists for a three-day stopover on their way to Iceland.
Icelandic stopover —
In Torshavn harbor, a Smyril Line ship has just arrived from Denmark, bringing tourists for a three-day stopover on their way to Iceland.
Dominik Sipinski/CNN
A narrow road from underneath Sl?ttaratindur, the highest peak in the Faroe Islands, descends to Funningur in thrilling serpentine lanes.
Tough drives —
A narrow road from underneath Sl?ttaratindur, the highest peak in the Faroe Islands, descends to Funningur in thrilling serpentine lanes.
Dominik Sipinski/CNN
Faroe Islands: Bleak, beautiful land of grass roofs

Story highlights

Faroe Islands have up to 300 rainy days a year, but the landscape gives them special appeal

Grass roofs in the Faroe Islands are the most conspicuous element of the local architecture

Many young Faroese leave to study abroad to escape the remoteness of home, but often return

CNN  — 

With up to 300 rainy days per year, the Faroe Islands aren’t set to become the next big summer vacation spot.

But the unscathed landscape, idiosyncratic architecture and a calming simplicity is attracting tourists more than ever.

Situated in the Gulf Stream in the North Atlantic, midway between Norway and Iceland, the 18 islands that make up the Faroes have 600 miles (965 kilometers) of roads and a population of sheep that significantly outnumbers the people.

Many arrive, just like I did, with a limited knowledge of this remote archipelago.

Travel guides mention the Faroe Islands only in passing.

But the islands, a territory of Denmark with a total area smaller than London and just 49,000 inhabitants (and 70,000 sheep), are becoming more than a refreshment stop for travelers on their way to Iceland.

As soon as I arrive, I meet Barour, an intern with the local tourist board.

Over one of the most expensive beers in my life ($10 for half a pint) in a hotel bar in the capital Torshavn, he briefs me on the local must-sees.

Tjornuvik is the northernmost village on the main island of Streymoy.

“From there, you’ll see where the Icelandic giants hurled a rope to tow the Faroes toward their island,” says Barour.

MORE: World’s most romantic islands

Mythological creation

According to local myth, creatures from Iceland were so jealous of the raw beauty of the Faroes that they wanted to have the islands for themselves.

It's bleak, but also soothing.
It's bleak, but also soothing.
Dominik Sipinski/CNN

But two giants that swam during the night across the ocean struggled to move the islands.

When the sun rose, they turned to stone.

That’s how Risin and Kellingin (“The Giant” and “The Witch”), two sea stacks north of Eysturoy island, each about 230 feet (70 meters) tall, were created, the legend goes.

Despite the comparatively small size of the Faroes, distances here appear surprisingly large and public buses run infrequently.

A camper van brought across via ferry or a rental car hired locally makes traveling the islands much easier.

Driving around the Faroe Islands is a thrilling experience.

Smooth, often narrow, one-lane roads wind through the Middle-earth-like surroundings, making for a perfectly picturesque road trip.

Such is the case with the road to Tjornuvik – a patch carved in rock on top of a nearly vertical cliff with narrow passing bays and sheep wandering the roads.

The road to Saksun, just few miles south of Tjornuvik, is less demanding, but equally unforgettable.

Seven miles of gentle bends in a juicy green valley lead to a lonely church overlooking a fjord and surrounded by waterfalls.

MORE: World’s 7 most dangerous and remote islands

Green roofs

Scattered along these roads are many grass-roofed houses.

These started life as a pragmatic solution for dwellings (see gallery), but have since become a symbol for the islands.

Houses have been built like this for more than a thousand years, providing protection from rain and thermal insulation.

Long hours of daylight (though rarely direct sunshine) in the summer allow for a thorough exploration of the northern Faroes.

The main islands are connected by underwater tunnels and one bridge: “The only bridge over the Atlantic Ocean,” jokes Barour.

Driving on another otherworldly road from Gjogv, known for its natural harbor in a gorge, it becomes clear that while the Faroes are a wonder for a fleeting visit, life here is difficult.

As I await the never-coming dusk of the almost polar day, the beautiful islands start to feel monotonous.

Lack of perspectives, loneliness and remoteness are problems for young Faroese and many leave to study abroad.

But not all is bad, say those who return.

Sheds built by Vikings hundreds of years ago are still in use today.
Sheds built by Vikings hundreds of years ago are still in use today.
Dominik Sipinski/CNN

“You have close family and people to help you here, and the environment is very anti-stressful,” says Bodil, a Faroese woman from the island of Eysturoy.

Despite weather so volatile that, according to a local saying, Vivaldi could have composed “The Four Seasons” in one day here, the Faroes can easily enchant a tourist with their unusual beauty.

MORE: Go barefoot or go home: 15 best islands you’ve never heard of

Getting there

The sole carrier offering regular flights to the only Faroese airport, Atlantic Airways connects the archipelago mostly with Copenhagen and Billund in Denmark.

Some flights depart to Norway and Iceland.

In summer there are also rare connections to London, Barcelona and Milan.

A weekly ferry is another option for those willing to endure three days on the typically rough North Sea.

Dominik Sipinski is a Polish freelance writer publishing both in Polish and in English.