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The fashion show, conceived by an Englishman in Paris in the mid-nineteenth century, is being transformed. And so it feels only appropriate that the man leading the charge for a new fashion model, over 120 years after Charles Frederick Worth’s death, is also a Brit.
Last February, Christopher Bailey, Chief Creative Officer and CEO of Burberry, announced that come September the fashion house would show a ‘seasonless’ collection of mens and womenswear fully available for purchase immediately after the show. The six month waiting game would be over. “See now, buy now” had begun.
And so followed a series of similar moves. In New York this season Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren all showed instantly shoppable collections.
British fashion house Burberry showed its latest collection in London's Soho area, in a new venue called Makers House.
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The collection, inspired by Virginia Woolf's novel "Orlando", was worn by male and female models and live streamed on Facebook and YouTube.
Dan Medhurst
Models walked to the live soundtrack of a 21-piece orchestra that, accompanied by pianist Rosey Chan and vocalists, performed 'Reliquary' -- a score written by British composer Ilan Eshkeri, exclusively for the show.
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The collection was also made available to buyers in-store and online immediately after the show in a new trend coined "see now, buy now".
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Christopher Bailey, Burberry Chief Creative and Chief Executive Officer, said in a statement: "Tonight's show marked a very special moment for us -- it was the culmination of a series of important changes we made designed to bring our collections closer to our customers."
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The show kicked off a week of activities at London Fashion Week celebrating British craftsmanship.
Burberry
Guests were invited to explore an exhibition of artisans and craftspeople -- including saddlers, embroiderers, scentmakers and bookbinders -- that will remain in the space for another week.
Dan Medhurst
The collection -- presented across three rooms painted in dusky pinks, greens and yellows -- combined denim, knitwear and pyjama-silk fabrics blending day and night, casual and formal. Ruffle neck shirts looked dreamily to the past while the androgynous casting and styling secured the collection's contemporary edge.
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Scroll through to see more looks from the fashion show...
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Burberry September 2016 collection
What would Worth make of the change? In his day the upper echelons of Parisian, and then American, society were ushered into private salons four times a year to view his designs.
The format was simple and soon widely adhered to – the shows would begin with day wear and end with evening wear and, of course, the wedding gown. They were elite, exclusive and it took months for the public to see any of the designs shown behind these tightly closed doors.
Cara Delevingne wears Burberry at the Burberry September 2016 show during London Fashion Week SS17.
David M. Benett/Getty Images Europe/Dave Benett / Getty Images for Burberry
L-R: Edie Campbell, Adwoa Aboah, Cara Delevingne, Lily James and Felicity Jones
David M. Benett/Getty Images Europe/Dave Benett / Getty Images for Burberry
L-R: Clara Paget, Adwoa Aboah and Cara Delevingne
David M. Benett/Getty Images Europe/Getty Images for Burberry
Alexa Chung, Jourdan Dunn
David M. Benett/Getty Images Europe/Dave Benett / Getty Images for Burberry
Olivia Palermo, Freida Pinto
David M. Benett/Getty Images Europe/Getty Images for Burberry
Felicity Jones, Charlotte Le Bon
David M. Benett/Getty Images Europe/Dave Benett / Getty Images for Burberry
Amber Anderson, Vicki Zhao
Dave Benett/Dave Benett/Dave Benett
Celebrities attend the Burberry show at Makers House during London Fashion Week
This September, male and female models walked in a show live-streamed on the Burberry website, Facebook and YouTube. Burberry also launched on Facebook Messenger offering live customer service facilities for eager buyers.
Literal hordes of fashion editors, online journalists and celebrities piled into an old bookshop in London’s Soho area – transformed into Makers House – to watch the show and explore an exhibition of artisans and craftspeople – including saddlers, embroiderers, scentmakers and bookbinders – that will remain in the space for another week.
An artisan works in Makers House.
Dan Medhurst
But visibility and accessibility did not override the drama and romance of a fashion show. Models walked to the live soundtrack of a 21-piece orchestra that, accompanied by pianist Rosey Chan and vocalists, performed ‘Reliquary’ – a score written by British composer Ilan Eshkeri, exclusively for the show.
The collection – presented across three rooms painted in dusky pinks, greens and yellows – combined denim, knitwear and pyjama-silk fabrics, blending day and night, casual and formal. Ruffle neck shirts looked dreamily to the past while the androgynous casting and styling secured the collection’s contemporary edge.
Craftsmanship on display at Makers House.
Dan Medhurst
A copy of ‘Orlando’ by Virginia Woolf was left for each guest on the pale pink fabric-covered benches. Widely regarded as one of Woolf’s more popular and accessible reads, the novel’s protagonist is born into the body of a man but later transforms into a woman, living some 300 years into modern times. Neither time nor gender could stop Woolf’s story and it seems the same now applies to Bailey.