This article is part of our series?Battle of the Brands, in which we compare category-leading products to their counterparts to determine which are actually worth your money.
When I first tried The Ordinary’s Niacinamide and Zinc Serum last fall, I was bummed. It didn’t seem to do much, apart from burning and reddening my face. I was especially disappointed because serums — skin care products that deliver powerful active ingredients like vitamin C — promise to clear up acne, support the skin barrier and give you glowy skin. Still, I was willing to give The Ordinary’s Niacinamide Serum another chance in a head-to-head with Medik8’s Clarity Peptides Serum — a sort of David versus Goliath match-up.
I say David and Goliath because Medik8’s serum ($54) costs eight times more than The Ordinary’s ($6) formula. And yet, both serums share the same key ingredients: 10% niacinamide and zinc PCA.
The difference is that Medik8 includes three additional actives: amino acids (aka peptides) that hydrate and smooth the skin; hydrating hyaluronic acid; and n-acetyl glucosamine (aka NAG), which moisturizes and reduces flakiness. To find out whether Medik8’s kitchen sink concoction is worth … 800% more, I tested each serum for a week.
The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% vs. Medik8 Clarity Peptide Serum at a glance
The Ordinary’s affordable serum reduced the size of my pores and regulated sebum production, likely thanks to its high concentration of niacinamide. Just be sure to gradually integrate it into your regimen, as it can cause redness, itching and burning.
Despite including more active ingredients and costing $48 more, Medik8’s serum had the same effect on our skin: smaller pores, less sebum and fewer breakouts. The only noticeable difference was that it felt gentler and more hydrating. That said, die-hard environmentalists may want to pay the premium to support Medik8, a sustainable skin care brand and certified B corporation.
| Size | 1 fluid ounce |
1 fluid ounce |
|---|---|---|
| Formula | Serum |
Serum |
| Key ingredients | 10% niacinamide and 1% zinc PCA |
10% niacinamide, zinc PCA, crystalide -peptide, hyaluronic acid and n-acetyl glucosamine (NAG) |
| Total ingredients | 11 |
31 |
| Skin benefits | Hydrates, brightens and reduces congestion |
Hydrates, brightens and reduces congestion |
| Price | From $6 | $54 |
What are serums?
I don’t know if it’s the word “serum” or the eye dropper, but I’ve always associated serums with real beauty nerds. But they’re not that complicated or special. A serum is just a viscous liquid that delivers highly concentrated active ingredients, such as retinol, vitamin C, lactic acid and hyaluronic acid. And since you want these actives to soak in, you apply serums after cleansing but before moisturizing. In other words, think of serums like supplements. Will they change your life? Probably not. But if you’ve already got a skin care routine with an excellent face wash and broad-spectrum sunscreen, a great serum could give your skin a slight boost.
In this case, both serums’ main actives are niacinamide and zinc PCA. Niacinamide, a naturally derived, water-soluble form of vitamin B3, is a hit with dermatologists because it has a bevy of proven benefits. It can reduce breakouts and oil, minimize the appearance of pores, treat hyperpigmentation and support the skin barrier.
Zinc PCA is similarly effective, though it’s really two ingredients working together. Zinc, a mineral, keeps acne-causing bacteria from multiplying while also tamping down on sebum production. L-PCA, or pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, is an amino acid that hydrates the skin.
Together, these two (or technically three) actives will be most impactful for people who have oily, acne-prone skin like mine, though anyone could benefit from these ingredients.
Mild redness and burning
When I began testing The Ordinary’s serum for this review, I again had an immediate reaction: splotchy redness and a burning sensation. This isn’t uncommon. Niacinamide is known to cause mild redness, itchiness and burning, especially in high concentrations. So, I proceeded with caution, applying the serums only once per day.
It was gradual, but my skin adapted and stopped reacting on day four. While I didn’t experience any burning or redness with Medik8’s formula, I imagine this is simply because I tested it after my skin had already grown used to niacinamide. That said, people with sensitive skin should spot-test both serums. If you do react, you can start with weaker serums first, use the serum less frequently or mix it in with your moisturizer.
Smaller pores and reduced sebum
I hate the sebaceous filaments on my nose. These black dots, often mistaken for blackheads, are hairlike structures that line oil glands, and when you produce a lot of sebum (like I do), they’re particularly pronounced. At least they were.
Since using both face serums, my sebaceous filaments and pores have been smaller, likely thanks to the high concentration of niacinamide, which regulates oil production and minimizes the appearance of pores. After switching from The Ordinary to Medik8’s serum, I haven’t seen a change, which makes intuitive sense given the products’ identical niacinamide concentrations. Zinc, which can also reduce sebum, may have also played a role.
Fewer breakouts
My current skin care regimen is close to perfect. I start with Neutrogena’s Stubborn Texture Cleanser, moisturize with The Ordinary’s Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA and finally apply Supergoop’s Mineral Mattescreen. Nevertheless, I still get the occasional pimple in my T-zone, usually on my forehead or chin.
In my decade-long war with acne, could niacinamide serum deal the decisive blow? The question wasn’t so outlandish. I’d read (unsponsored) reports on Instagram of The Ordinary’s serum completely eliminating acne, and the reviews for both products are incredibly positive.
Unfortunately, as I write this review I have a pimple on my forehead. Granted, it’s small and should go away within a few days, but neither serum was the secret weapon I’d hoped for. I have, however, seen an improvement in my acne, with marginally fewer breakouts and faster healing. My skin also looked healthier than usual while using the serums, especially in the second round of testing when I switched to Medik8’s product.
Unlike The Ordinary’s clear serum, which was maybe a tad drying, Medik8’s formulation is milky, filled with clarity peptides that left my skin feeling hydrated to the point where I’d sometimes skip my moisturizer. Put simply, it made my skin happy, both reducing oil while also soothing and hydrating. That gives it a slight edge over The Ordinary’s serum, if you forget it costs $48 more.
Bottom line
Are these products noticeably different? Despite Medik8 having a slightly more hydrating formula, the answer is no; my skin reacted to both serums in pretty much the same way. I suspect this is because niacinamide, the star ingredient, is present in equal concentrations, so the effects are similar: smaller pores, reduced sebum production and marginally fewer breakouts. Even if Medik8’s product stood out — and it didn’t — it’d take a lot to justify spending $54 on 30 milliliters of anything.
The only reason I could see someone choosing Medik8’s serum is for the planet. The British company is a Certified B Corporation, earning an impact score of 89.8, far better than the median score for typical businesses (50.9). Meanwhile, Deciem, the company behind The Ordinary, bluntly admits that it’s “not a sustainable beauty company,” at least not yet.
But if you don’t have the extra cash — after all, there are other ways to live sustainably — go for The Ordinary’s niacinamide and zinc serum. The benefits won’t be striking, but for $6, it’s a nice addition to an already-robust skin care routine.
