??Most of us consider jeans a wardrobe staple, so it’s worth looking to sustainable denim brands for your next pair. A great pair of jeans is worth the investment — they look effortlessly cool, can be super comfortable if you find your perfect fit and tend to outlast other, flimsier items in our wardrobe. However, the denim industry (and the fashion industry at large) is marked by unsustainable manufacturing processes than can have serious repercussions on the environment and human health. It’s a problem that sustainable denim brands are trying to fix, one pair of jeans at a time.
Ahead, hear from sustainable living experts about denim’s environmental impact, how to shop jeans more eco-consciously and what brands have the best sustainable denim.
Is denim a sustainable fabric?
“The fashion industry is a major contributor to pollution, emissions and water waste, and denim is one of the worst offenders,” says Michelle Marsh, creative director of ética Denim, a sustainable denim company. She explains that denim is typically made from cotton, “a thirsty plant” that requires massive amounts of water, pesticides, fertilizers and irrigation. Deborah Lindquist, a sustainable fashion expert, eco-fashion designer and celebrity stylist, adds that the cotton used in the denim manufacturing process is grown with pesticides and herbicides linked to cancer, destruction of the microbiome, neurological disease, birth defects and sterilization of the soil.
If said denim has stretch, Marsh says those fibers operate as plastics sourced from the likes of oil and toxic chemicals, which shed microfibers when washed and end up in our drinking water, soil and oceans.
Unfortunately, the denim damage doesn’t stop there. Marsh says “the second wave of damage” from denim occurs when your sewn jeans are then treated to remove some of that deep indigo color for an authentic wash effect. “Normally, this process can use up to 2,000 gallons of water per load, plus toxic chemicals like potassium permanganate, bleach, caustic soda and chemical softeners, which is another round of pollution that seeps into soil and waterways.”
What’s more is that denim also contributes to the demise of our forests. Nicole Rycroft, founder and executive director of Canopy Planet Society, a sustainability nonprofit, explains that denim often uses viscose, a semisynthetic type of rayon fabric typically made from wood pulp, which results in the logging of over 300 million trees every year, “many from the most biodiversity-rich and carbon-critical forests on the planet,” she says.
If it sounds as though a pair of jeans’ deleterious effects on the planet cease once it’s discarded, that’s not quite the case. “When denim clothing is disposed of in landfills, it can take decades or centuries to decompose, and it releases methane, a potent greenhouse gas,” Rycroft says.
Beyond its environmental impact, the denim production industry has a documented history of human labor violations. Lindquist says the production of volume brands by certain sweatshops in third-world countries is connected to forced labor and human trafficking, and it doesn’t stop there. “There are abuses at every step of the supply chain, from farming to fabric production and manufacturing that need to be addressed as well,” Marsh says.
If this all is about to detract you from ever investing in another pair of jeans again, there’s actually a lot you can do to ensure you find a sustainable pair. Ebru Debbag, a sustainable fashion expert and executive director of global sales and marketing at Soorty Enterprises, says to first ask yourself whether you truly need a new pair of jeans. “If the answer is yes, ask yourself how long you would like your jeans to last. If you choose to buy a new pair, it’s important to consider how authentic the brand is in their communication and offer of sustainable options,” she says. Singled-out products and capsule collections, for example, might not reflect the overall impact the brand is committed to. “A brief research will suffice to understand if the brand presents a genuine interest in becoming circular,” Debbag says.
Next, look for brands using organic materials, which should include organic cotton or hemp, sustainable dyes and finishing methods and non-sweatshop production methods that are fair trade, Lindquist says. She adds that hemp makes for a solid sustainable alternative to cotton because it’s naturally pest resistant (omitting the need for harmful pesticides), only requires water to break down and turn into usable fiber, and requires far less water to grow than cotton.
Marsh also recommends other plant-based fibers like Tencel or Refibra. “Starting here can save up to 1,800 liters of water and toxins from the very start,” she says. While blends are common and might contribute to the overall comfort of your denim, Rycroft recommends staying away since they tend to be more difficult to recycle at the end of their life.
For that added stamp of approval, Debbag suggests keeping an eye out for certifications like Cradle to Cradle Certified since it assesses both environmental and social impact of your denim from product circularity to labor fairness.
Finally, Rycroft recommends considering the longevity of your jeans. “Choose well-made, durable jeans that can be repaired if needed and that will last a long time,” she says. “This will help reduce the overall environmental impact of clothing production and consumption.” For bonus points, she says to buy pre-loved jeans. That worn-in look and feel takes care of any uncomfortable, rigid break-in periods commonly associated with a new pair of jeans.
Ahead, we’ve rounded up jeans from the best sustainable denim brands you can feel good about adding to your wardrobe.
Best sustainable denim brands
“Levi[’s] creates jeans and other pieces made partially with recycled viscose,” Rycroft says. “Last year they made the iconic 501s with Circulose, a recycled textile viscose from Renewcell, the world’s first commercial-scale textile-to-textile mill. Renewcell takes clothing and fabric scraps and turns them into next season’s clothing.”
An editor-favorite sustainable brand, Mavi works to reduce its environmental impact by cutting down on energy and water consumption in its production processes. Its denim often combines cotton and sustainable fibers like Tencel, as is the case with these stylish bootcut jeans.
“DL1961 recycles postconsumer textiles and creates new fabric out of it to produce their jeans,” Lindquist says.
According to the brand, this pair of jeans saves water and energy usage during its production process and is made with eco-friendly fibers.
“Everlane offers a jean for every body type and is committed to producing with factories that use recycled water and renewable energy,” Debbag says.
The Original Cheeky Jean is one of their most popular styles. It comes in six washes, two inseam lengths and sizes 23 to 35.
“Nudie Jeans has a focus on sustainable raw materials and they also offer repair options for your jeans,” Debbag says.
Made from organic cotton, this dark-wash pair has a timeless, straight-leg fit.
With its commitment to halving its carbon footprint by 2027, its use of organic cotton in its jeans and its newly appointed B Corp Certification, Ganni earns Rycroft’s recommendation for an upscale designer denim brand to shop.
For its use of low-carbon, next-generation fibers built to naturally degrade in under two years, Triarchy is a wise addition to your sustainable jean collection and recommended by Rycroft.
Lindquist recommends checking out luxury denim brand Amendi for its sustainability efforts, ranging from repurposing discarded “deadstock” fabrics from luxury fashion houses to using naturally biodegradable wood pulp-derived lyocell.
“Mud Jeans is the first ever jeans brand offering a leasing option, which extends the life cycle and the use of a product and ensures circularity,” Debbag says. The Dutch brand ships globally for €45 and is available in the US via Ooloop.
“Outland Denim, which is [B Corp certified], teams up with at-risk women in Cambodia to produce its ethical denim collection,” Debbag says. “In 2020 alone, the brand employed over 750 staff and used 57% less energy in production.”
