Unlike cleansing, moisturizing and reapplying sunscreen every two hours, exfoliating doesn’t need to be done on a daily basis in order to reap the benefits — but it is important to do regularly if you want your skin to look and feel its best. Why? Because exfoliating gets rid of the old, dead skin cells lingering on the surface of the skin that eventually lead to dullness, uneven skin tone and clogged pores. When done correctly (which we’ll get into later), exfoliation can deliver instantresults and leave skin looking brighter, smoother and healthier overall. On the flip side, over-exfoliating or using the wrong exfoliator for your skin type can cause damage to the skin barrier, resulting in increased redness, sensitivity and dryness.
How do you know which type of exfoliator is best for your skin? And how often should you really be doing it to get the best results? Ahead, we’re answering these questions and more, with expert insight and product recommendations from two board-certified derms.
Chemical vs. physical exfoliators
We can’t talk about exfoliating without clearly defining the two different types: chemical and physical. “Physical exfoliants mechanically help to buff away dead skin cells, while chemical exfoliants work by weakening the bonds between the dead skin cells to help eliminate the dead cells,” explains Dr. Marisa Garshick, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City.
Physical exfoliants typically come in the form of scrubs, however, you’ll also find exfoliating brushes and other devices on the market that work similarly to physically slough off dead skin cells. Then you have washcloths, which provide mechanical exfoliation when combined with water and cleanser. Put it this way: If you’re using your hands and circular motions are involved, it’s physical exfoliation.
Chemical exfoliants, on the other hand, use specific exfoliating ingredients to help loosen up and remove dead skin cells without the need for any manual involvement like scrubbing. They’re often found in the form of face masks, toners, facial pads and serums. “Chemical exfoliators contain alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, lactic acid or mandelic acid, or beta hydroxy acids like salicylic acid,” says Garshick. Chemical formulas are also left to sit on the skin for a certain amount of time to do their job, which is another key factor differentiating them from physical exfoliants.
It’s also common to see formulas that contain both physical and chemical exfoliating elements, where an acid is paired with a scrubbing agent.
The best type of exfoliator for each skin type
While both forms of exfoliation are effective, it’s very important to use one that’s suited for your skin type — especially if your skin’s sensitive and prone to irritation. “For those with sensitive skin, I recommend looking for formulas with poly-hydroxy acids or PHAs because they’re on the gentle end of chemical exfoliants,” says Dr. Robert Finney, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist based in New York City. “Those who are more acne-prone do great with salicylic acid because it helps to cut through oil better, and those concerned with pigment [like dark spots] and anti-aging do great with glycolic acid,” he adds.
Garshick echoes Finney’s advice. “Generally for those with dry or sensitive skin it is best to opt for a gentle chemical exfoliant such as PHAs, as physical exfoliants may be too harsh and abrasive on the skin,” she says. “Those with oily skin may find salicylic acid, a type of chemical exfoliant, to help unclog pores in addition to exfoliation.” Last but not least, if you have normal or combination skin and aren’t susceptible to adverse reactions, Garshick says you have the green light to go with either type of exfoliation, so long as you’re gentle and don’t do it too frequently. Speaking of which…
How to exfoliate
The frequency at which you should exfoliate ultimately depends on your skin type and what you can tolerate. While some folks can get away with exfoliating every other day, others have to wait days or even weeks between sessions. “People with really oily, acne-prone skin may tolerate frequent use of exfoliants, whereas people with sensitive skin may only do so once a week or every other week,” says Finney. This goes for both physical and chemical exfoliants.
As a general rule, Garshick recommends exfoliating once or twice per week, but above all, always listen to your skin, as it will tell you if you’re overdoing it. She also advises against using harsh active ingredients (such as benzoyl peroxide or retinoids) on the same days you exfoliate in order to avoid irritation. The skin cycling technique can help you balance all of your products, and ultimately, your skin.
“It’s best to work on clean skin, and after exfoliating, it’s important to apply a gentle moisturizer to help soothe and nourish the skin,” says Garshick.
Benefits of exfoliating
“Both chemical and physical exfoliants work to eliminate the buildup of dead skin cells, leaving the skin appearing brighter, more radiant and feeling softer and smoother,” Garshick says of the benefits of exfoliation. “By helping to get rid of the buildup of dead skin cells, it also helps to enhance penetration of products in your skin care routine,” she adds.
Additionally, some chemical exfoliants — such as salicylic-acid-based ones — can help keep acne at bay because they have pore-clearing properties, while alpha hydroxy acids can aid in improving discoloration and hyperpigmentation. Overall, exfoliation is an excellent way to renew skin and keep it looking fresh, glowing and supple.
Now that you’re primed on exfoliation, how it works, the different types and how it benefits the skin, check out the 14 best chemical and physical exfoliants according to our experts.
Best chemical exfoliators
“Designed to help with dullness, this once-weekly facial treatment helps to get rid of dead skin cells, leaving the skin glowing and radiant,” Garshick shares. Bonus: The luxe chemical formula also helps to fade dark spots and other forms of pigmentation, and it can make pores appear smaller, too.?
Another Garshick go-to, these famous exfoliating pads from First Aid Beauty contain a blend of lactic and glycolic acids to lift dead skin cells and leave skin looking fresh, soft and smooth.?
“It’s a great option for all skin types as it’s alcohol-free and free of artificial fragrance, parabens, phthalates and formaldehyde,” says Garshick, who also adds that it’s excellent for reducing scars.
This fan-favorite serum from La Roche-Posay contains both salicylic and glycolic acid to bust breakouts and blemishes by simultaneously getting rid of dead skin cells and unclogging the pores. “I love that it also contains niacinamide and the brand’s soothing thermal water to minimize irritation,” Garshick says.
“These pads contain glycolic and salicylic acids so they’re great for texture, congestion and pigment, while also providing anti-aging benefits,” says Finney of these medical-grade exfoliating pads. They’re also fragrance- and preservative-free, as well as clinically tested.??
Finney highly recommends this gentle toner packed with PHAs for his patients with sensitive skin. “It also adds in some hydrating ingredients to counteract irritation,” he says. Plus, you really can’t beat the price.?
“If you have combination skin and want something a little stronger than your typical PHA toner, but don’t want to dry your skin out too much, this is a great option,” says Finney of Naturium’s niacinamide-spiked serum. “The niacinamide mixed in helps to fight inflammation and repair the skin's barrier, which is an extra bonus."
Underscored beauty editor Sophie Shaw is a fan of these travel-friendly peel pads. The two-step system includes one exfoliating pad — loaded with glycolic acid, lactic acid and malic acid, plus antioxidant-rich green tea to fight free radicals — and one neutralizing pad to use once the acids have worked their magic. "These leave my combination skin feeling soft and smooth, and because they help keep pores clear, they've kept breakouts at bay, too," she says.
Although, she notes, they do have some alcohol in the formula, so sensitive and dry skin types may want to opt for another product.
Shaw also vouches for this viral, award-winning salicylic acid exfoliating liquid. It's expert-recommended for oily skin skin types, and the skin-barrier-supporting formula is gentle enough for daily use.
This fan-favorite treatment by Drunk Elephant uses a powerhouse blend of glycolic, tartaric, lactic, citric and salicylic acids to eradicate dull dead skin cells in minutes for instantly brighter, smoother skin. This formula is especially beneficial for anyone who’s looking to address multiple skin concerns at once, including fine lines, hyperpigmentation and rough texture.
For $6, you really can’t beat the price, but don’t let the affordability fool you: This overnight serum packs a serious punch, delivering dramatically brighter and smoother skin by morning thanks to glycolic, lactic and salicylic acids. Additionally, it keeps skin hydrated and calm with vitamin E, glycerin and hyaluronic acid.?
Another pick from Shaw, this exfoliating treatment evens skin tone, smoothes texture and fades dark spots with lactic acid, prickly pear extract and hyaluronic acid. It's safe for sensitive skin and also treats signs of aging like fine lines and wrinkles.
Best physical exfoliators and scrubs
As far as physical exfoliants go, Garshick loves this tried-and-true gentle scrub from Cetaphil.?
“This scrub not only helps to cleanse the skin to get rid of dirt and buildup, but also uses micro-fine granules to help remove dull dead skin cells,” she says. “It leaves skin looking radiant and feeling soft without feeling dry because it includes skin conditioners and a vitamin complex to soothe and soften the skin.”
This 100% plant-based physical exfoliant from Versed features biodegradable cellulose microcrystals that gently exfoliate without aggravating sensitive skin. Additionally, it contains antioxidants to help protect the skin from free radical damage we’re constantly exposed to. Garshick recommends using it once a week gently massaged into wet skin.
Dr. Joshua Zeichner, another board-certified dermatologist based in New York City, recommends this enzyme-based powder exfoliant from Peach & Lily. “It contains a blend of ultra-gentle fine particles, including cornstarch and rice bran extract, to remove dead cells from the surface of the skin without causing irritation,” he says. The brand also made sure the fine particles would have rounded, microcrystalline edges to ensure no scratching or micro-tearing of the skin.
“This scrub offers a combination of manual and chemical exfoliation with gentle sucrose and silica particles along with lactic acid,” says Zeichner of this $4 exfoliant. “The formula contains a combination of aloe and shea butter to help hydrate and maintain skin barrier function.”
Another dual chemical and physical exfoliating treatment, this time recommended by Shaw, this polish is applied like a face mask, left on for up to 10 minutes and then rinsed off. The enzymatic exfoliators work to break down dead skin cells as it sits on the skin, then as you massage it in and rinse it away, its gentle grittiness helps slough away any surface-level debris.
This innovative facial scrub combines the benefits of chemical and physical exfoliation using a blend of sugar, probiotic extracts and fruit enzymes. In addition to dead skin, it also gets rid of excess oil and other impurities that build up on the skin throughout the day — all while being gentle and not stripping the skin.?
Shaw also likes this new exfoliating cleanser that can also be left on as a face mask. Clarifying and brightening, the product features a bevy of naturally derived ingredients to gently buff the skin. Flower acids act as a chemical exfoliant, while AHA-infused rice microparticles and volcanic sand add physical exfoliation. The inclusion of oceanic clay powder and bentonite also adds detoxifying properties to help clear the pores.
